The fashion industry gains new capital, but loses control over its own symbolic order. What looks like sponsorship shifts the question of who still gets to confer cultural status.
Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel Cruise 2027 debut is being treated as the return of intelligence to luxury fashion. The problem is that much of it looks strangely anonymous.
At the Grand Palais, Chanel tells a story of caterpillars and butterflies, of transformation and freedom. Above the runway, brightly colored cranes rise into the space, promising change. The fashion...
Off-White was once the most visible symbol of a fashion fed by streetwear, art, and luxury. Today, the brand feels less like a pace-setter and more like a relic of an already completed cycle. Its...
The major fashion houses are changing their creative directors at ever shorter intervals. What appears to be instability follows a clear logic. Design today is less a matter of authorship than a...